Tall, white and raised in Vermont, American chef Andy Ricker is an unlikely champion of Siamese food culture. And yet. The opening of Ricker’s game-changing Portland restaurant Pok Pok showed America’s north-west – and, in time, the rest of the country – what uncompromising Northern Thai food should taste like. Today, the James Beard-award-winning chef and multiple cookbook author lives in Chiang Mai: the Thai province that inspired the original Pok Pok, which closed its doors in the fall of 2020. Here’s his hit-list of essential Chiang Mai eating experiences.