Where does a Parisian food journalist buy his wine and groceries? Where does he go when he wants a taste of Brittany? And where does he go to buy his bread every day? “Everything is super good and not at all fashionable as many bakeries in Paris are now,” says Olivier Reneau, a freelance writer whose work appears everywhere from in-flight in Air France Madame to the influential Italian food guide, Identita Golose. The bakery’s name, incidentally, is Ernest & Valentin. Read on for a truly street-level guide to eating, drinking and living in Paris.